A modeling agency – a business that chooses models to represent their business by a process of selection called a casting call/open casting. They send models to auditions to try out for a particular job and they also do direct bookings (which are rare these days) where the model is chosen from the agency website by the client and sent straight to the job. They also select photographers to take test shoots with you to build your portfolio on how they think it will boost your image. Taking a certain cut/percentage of the money, models are paid per job not usually by the hour. They will be represented on the agency’s social media and personal website along with the other models within the agency.
Agency rates and things to look out for
Agencies typically take 15-20% from the model’s wage per job. This is the average and a good number for America so please be warned if the agency takes 30-50% or even higher. Those are not a professional agencies but a shady business or a scam. (Noted: In Japan all modeling agencies take 50% but their work ethics are very different than the US and their work regulations are culturally different so it may differ in other countries as well.)
Things to look for when searching for an agency is first how many models do they have and are they professional models. The more models they have the more likely they will waste your time sending you to castings you don’t even qualify for (An example of one of my castings: an outdoor sports equipment commercial when I’m white as snow and wafer thin, clearly I didn’t fit the category of fitness and outdoor sports but was still sent to it anyways). Also when they have a lot of models they are less likely to pay attention or help the growth of your career leaving most of the work to you to promote yourself. The pay will also be less per job with a lower end agency because it’s seen as less professional, but as a beginner model you can’t be too picky until you get established. Of course aim for the top ones but for starting out aim for the smaller ones too. They are great stepping stones. Try them all and go to the casting calls/open calls and then make your choice after that. Their business also needs to represent you well. Look for quality agency websites and not free ones such as Wix or other free platforms with blurry pictures or unprofessional models. It means the agency has no money and most likely has nothing but free test shoots or isn’t real at all. Too many models and it’s an agency looking to gain money through numbers of people not skill, too few the agency is either very selective, just starting out, or not professional. You can usually tell by the set up and appearance of their websites such as blurry pictures, typos, no contact information, and broken links. If the agent ever asks for money it’s NOT an agency but a scam. The only thing I paid for was my start up portfolio photos but that was it (and the photos were indeed professional and they brought me in a lot of work from clients).
One more thing to be aware about is the agency holding you back once you’ve signed with them or things hidden in their contract. If they hold you back from getting another agency in a different state (US only) don’t listen to them and do it. I was supposed to go to New York but my agency said I wasn’t ready and needed more experience and then that I was too old once a year had passed wasting this golden opportunity to flourish back then. If they say you can’t sign with any other agencies outside your state or sometimes even region then the agency isn’t good and is holding you back. Always read the contract carefully to see if they put other limitations on getting other agencies and outside work (although for outside work sometimes they are being cautious to make sure you don’t sign with a big brand company, not get paid well, and then can’t model any brand in that category. Please be careful what you model!). If the agency is providing you no castings/auditions or one every few months as it happened to me in Japan then it’s time to search for an agent that actually has work. As a model it’s your responsibility to chose an agency that will give you good representation. They may be picky but so should you.
What to check for (an unprofessional agency)
~ too many unprofessional models and low quality photos
~ using a free website or no website!
~ many broken links and no updates
~ too small of an agency (5 models or less is usually not good unless it’s a very professional agency)
~ taking more than 30% of your pay (unless outside the US)
~ getting no work for more than a year (even if you get a few auditions)
~ no auditions or work being offered by the agency
~ only low paying jobs being offered $100 or less
How to find an agent
Grab some coffee and eye drops and be prepared to spend hours filtering and saving potential agencies. I used google and just typed in the location of where I wanted to apply and the words modeling agency. In Japan, this was a pain because most are not easy to find online but through Instagram so try there as well to see what you can find. Also be aware of escort services which are openly offered in Japan as “model agencies”. You can tell if they charge clients per the hour for a model. Pretty obvious really, but please be careful when working overseas! Make an organized list into three categories: Top agencies that are a must for submissions, decent agencies that could work, fake and possibly scam type agencies. Keep this list for future reference so you can save time in researching. Take a few days to select your top 5 to apply for and then prepare for the applications, but before you do that be sure to apply for the right category that suits you best! After submitting to the top 5 prepare yourself to submit to more if you don’t hear back within two weeks after contacting these agencies. And remember just because you submitted once doesn’t mean you can’t submit again. Submit new digitals every 6 months to the same agencies and keep trying. They may not need your looks now but in the future it could be exactly what they are looking for. Never Never Never ask the agency for an update on if they received your digitals or are going to accept you. That is a big no no for modeling and very unprofessional. Modeling is a business and should be treated as such in all aspects from the beginning. Be respectful in your submission emails and responses and you’ll do really well!
Categories to try for
There are usually 3 or 4 types of categories for a model agency. You have high fashion which is very strict on size, height, and age so if you don’t fit for this one then you don’t have to apply, but wait! Although sometimes agencies do make exceptions on age and in rarer cases size and height. Fashion models also known as just “Womens and Mens” category (the names may be different on each site) is more flexible on size, height, and age and mostly deal with commercial and movie based castings along with merchandise and life style modeling. You can always submit to these because they’re searching for a variety of people. There are also sub categories such voice acting, actors and actresses, etc. which you can apply for if interested or skilled in doing so. Read through the requirements of each category to see which one will fit you best. Don’t worry about if you don’t fit the requirements exactly. Agencies do make exceptions and now that fashion is changing for a diversity of looks they are more flexible in accepting those who don’t fit their standard requirements.
What to submit
This is easy so have a measuring tape in hand and possibly a friend who can take snap shots/digitals of you and your body in simple clothes and swim suit. (I’ll write more later on how to take digitals so check back soon!)
While professional photos are nice if you have them as an already professional model, but don’t spend a single penny on photos to submit to agencies. They want to see the real you and not altered photos or heavy makeup. Simple pictures are all you need for now! Each modeling site will vary in what they ask for in submissions but usually it’s your current measurements (and don’t lie as they check once more at the open calls and you’ll be wasting your and the agents time), age, location of the general place you live and how far you are willing to travel for jobs and auditions, new digitals and contact information. Some agencies are super picky about what kind of digitals they want so follow their instructions carefully so that you don’t get rejected immediately because of this. If there is an opportunity to write a message with your submission don’t send a long message. Keep your messages short and to the point, but also thank the agency for taking the time to review your submission. Also check for spelling mistakes, no texting or casual language, and that you’ve met all of their requirements before submitting. Show the agency that you are professional and your chances of succeeding increase.
Casting calls/open calls
After sending in your submission and lucky you if you’re chosen for an open call now it’s time to meet the agency and its agents face to face. Go there prepared and on time. This means with a natural look or no make up at all, friendly personality, and please practice your poses before you go so you’re ready for digitals. I learned this the hard way and was super stiff and awkward in all my photos. They will take your measurements, a few more digitals, and possibly offer you a contract or a goal to meet before making the contract (changing a certain look like hair color or style, weight loss, etc.) Take a few days to consider the contract but not too long as hesitation means you don’t want to really work for their company. Once you’re ready to accept or decline send a gracious email either way to thank them for their time and keep it professional and to the point just in case you decide to reapply in the future to accept them as your agency.
Quick list of what to bring to an open call
~ a modern medium/large bag to keep your outfits in
~ black or solid color bikini
~ low to medium height high heels (easy to walk in!)
~ a hair tie (this is a must! They will ask you to put your hair up)
~ keep piercings small and no jewelry (think natural beauty)
~ minimal makeup (light powder, foundation, a little bit of concealer for acne, colorless lip balm, light mascara, no more than that!)
~ a pen and notebook (prepare some well thought out professional questions for the agency. Examples: how often do you provide models with auditions, what is your main focus as an agency: (commercial, movies, runway, print modeling), do you provide test shoots for models regularly, are models also allowed to freelance model while being with the agency, etc.)
Rejection and resubmission
Agencies get an abundance of submissions every day so don’t be hurt if they don’t contact you and please don’t contact the agent on whether or not they received it. They don’t have time to respond to all except the ones they want to see. If you get a rejection email it is actually nice of them to do so in taking the time. If rejected it doesn’t mean you can’t reapply or that you’re not good enough. For the time being your look doesn’t fit what they need. Reapply to the agency about every 6 months with fresh digitals and keep on trying. You never know!
Prepare to change your look
If selected and a contract is given be prepared to change your looks to how they want you to look. It’s part of the sacrifice you must make when working with an agency and keep an open mind that they are thinking of you as a piece of their business and what will fit best in the current fashion market to bring you the most jobs. If you’re willing to make that sacrifice then do it! How much of a sacrifice are we talking about? For me it was to grow out my hair to one simple length and never change its style, straighten my teeth, and fix my acne to a controlled level. It was a lot to take in all at once when visiting the agency but I did it and I learned so much in the process because of it.
Modeling agencies have favorites
Be prepared to have the agency chose a few of their favorite top models among you. Even if you are getting more jobs than their chosen model if that person lands a big job then they are highlighted and advertised well in order to get them more work above the rest and to boost the agency’s business. The more well known a model the more well known the agency. It sucks being the bottom feeder of an agency but if you’re getting the jobs who cares. It’s their loss as a business if they don’t chose to highlight all models equally.
Last but not least modeling agencies are a business that want to make money. Keep this in mind when signing with an agency and remember that you too should think of modeling in a business type way. Are you being represented well by the agency and are they getting you jobs? The basics of modeling agencies are just the beginning to joining the modeling world and there are other ways such as becoming a freelance model too and running the business yourself! These are just based on my experiences and knowledge. Please be safe in choosing an agent that is real and will represent you to their best of their ability. Don’t let them scam you or hold you back in furthering your career the way you want to. They are there to help you while making the search for jobs a lot easier. Modeling agencies not for you? How about trying as a freelance model?
Search for more articles below!
Beauty Bomb 